多国丝绸行业组织共同发布《全面客观评价丝绸产品生命周期倡议书》
2021年6月10号，丝绸可持续发展国际智库论坛在中国杭州举行，来自中国、意大利、法国、印度、巴西的丝绸可持续领域专家分别作了主题报告，对丝绸绿色生产、碳足迹核算、希格可持续指数改进、生命周期评价等作出专业解读。会上，国际丝绸联盟联合国际蚕业委员会、意大利丝绸协会（UIS）、法国丝绸协会、巴西丝绸协会（ABRASEDA）等多家单位联合发布了《全面客观评价丝绸产品生命周期倡议书》。
On June 10, 2021, the International Think Tanks Forum on Silk Sustainable Development was held in Hangzhou, China, the experts in the field of silk sustainability from China, Italy, France, India, Brazil made a keynote report, and shared professional interpretations on silk green production, carbon footprint accounting, Higg MSI Index improving, life cycle assessment, etc. During the meeting， ISU joined hands with International Sericultural Commission (ISC), Ufficio Italiano Seta (UIS), INTERSOIE France and Brazilian Silk Association (ABRASEDA), released the Proposal for the Comprehensive and Objective Assessment of Life Cycle of Silk Products.
倡议发布后，国际丝绸联盟将通过已落地五大洲覆盖200多个国家和地区的浙江电视台国际频道及FaceBook、YouTube、TikTok等国际融媒体矩阵，通过欧洲华语广播电台、美国鹰龙传媒集团、捷克布拉格时报等海外媒体平台，以及世界丝绸网融媒体矩阵、丝绸杂志、杭州东方丝绸等多渠道发布和推广倡议书，为丝绸行业健康可持续发展持续发声。各成员国单位、各理事单位也在积极利用自身的平台优势，协助倡议书的传播和推广。
After release, International Silk Union will promote the proposal through the international channel of Zhejiang TV station which have landed in five continents covering more than 200 countries and regions, the International Finance Media Matrix such as FaceBook, YouTube, TikTok, etc, and other overseas media platforms like Radio mandarin d’Europe, EDI Media Inc. and Prague Chinese Times, as well as the World Silk Website Media Matrix, Journal of Silk, Hangzhou Oriental Silk and other multi-channels, continue to speak out for the healthy and sustainable development of the silk industry. All ISU member countries units and council units are also actively using their own platform to assist in the promotion of the proposal.
全面客观评价丝绸产品生命周期倡议书
Proposal for the Comprehensive and Objective Assessment of Life Cycle of Silk Products
近年来，我们关注到可持续服装联盟（SAC）推出了希格材料可持续性指数（Higg MSI），其中关于丝绸面料的环境影响信息存在片面性和不准确性，给国际丝绸行业的生产和消费带来误导，对全球乡村地区、生产企业等数百万利益相关者产生连锁反应。
In recent years, we have noticed that the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) has released the Higg Material Sustainability Index (Higg MSI). However, the one-sidedness and inaccuracy of the index on the environmental impact of silk have created considerable confusion and consternation among the global silk fraternity. This may create cascading effect on the livelihood opportunities to millions of stakeholders in the rural areas and producing mills all across the globe.
为了更加全面客观地反映丝绸产品的碳中和性和可持续性，国际丝绸联盟（ISU）联合国际蚕业委员会（ISC）、意大利丝绸协会（UIS）、法国丝绸协会、巴西丝绸协会（ABRASEDA）等多家单位联合发起以下倡议：
With a view to reflect the carbon neutrality and sustainability of silk products in a more comprehensive and objective manner, International Silk Union (ISU) joined hands with several organizations, such as International Sericultural Commission (ISC), Ufficio Italiano Seta (UIS), INTERSOIE France and Brazilian Silk Association (ABRASEDA), to table the following proposal:
质疑Higg MSI对丝绸面料的评分方法
To question the method of developing Higg MSI scoring on silk
Higg MSI将丝绸面料的环境影响值评为1086，是合成面料的30多倍，其评分的不合理主要表现为：
Higg MSI arrived the environmental impact value of silk as 1086, which is more than 30 times worse than synthetic fabric. The irrationality of its scoring was mainly manifested on the following aspects:
1. Higg MSI对丝绸的生命周期评价仅停留在从蚕桑到面料（即从“摇篮到大门”）的阶段。参照国际标准《ISO 14020 : 2000 Environmental labels and declarations — General principles》和《ISO 14040 : 2006 Environmental management — Life cycle assessment — Principles and framework》，对丝绸产品的生命周期评价宜为从“摇篮到坟墓”的研究类型，即涵盖丝绸成衣、丝绸服饰、丝绸家纺产品的生产、使用和废弃处理阶段。丝绸作为“纤维皇后”，其制成品使用周期更长、洗涤次数更少、天然可降解，从“摇篮到坟墓”的研究更具说服力、完整性和科学性。
1. Higg MSI's assessment of the life cycle of silk only stays at the stage from sericulture to fabric (that is, from "cradle to gate"). Refer to the international standards of ISO 14020:2000 Environmental labels and declarations-General principles and ISO 14040:2006 ISO 14040:2006 Environmental management — Life cycle assessment — Principles and framework, the life cycle assessment of silk products should be a research type from "cradle to grave", which covers the production, use and disposal of silk ready to wear, silk apparels and silk home textiles. Silk is the “queen of fibers”, and its manufactured goods had a long service life and were eventually biodegradable. Therefore, the research from "cradle to grave" is more convincing, complete and scientific.
2. Higg MSI的评价指标仅包括“全球变暖潜值”“富营养化”、“水资源短缺”、“化石燃料枯竭”和“化学影响”五项指标，应依据“欧盟产品环境足迹种类规则（PEFCR）”，增加评价指标，全面地评估丝绸的资源环境影响。
2. The evaluation indicators of Higg MSI only included “global warming potential”, “nutrient pollution in water / eutrophication”, “water scarcity”, “fossil fuel depletion” and “chemistry”. It should be added to comprehensively evaluate the environmental performance according to the Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules Guidance (PEFCR).
3. 据相关资料表明，Higg MSI对丝绸的评分数据来源于Miguel F. Astudillo等人在《清洁生产》杂志上发表的“Life cycle assessment of Indian silk”一文。论文数据收集早于2013年，缺乏时效性，且用个别国家和地区的数据来评价丝绸的环境影响，不具有代表性和全面性。据了解，该研究是出于完全不同的目的而开展的，并非用于希格指数。
3. As manifested by relevant data, Higg MSI’s scoring data of silk originated from a paper called Life Cycle Assessment of Indian Silk published by Miguel F. Astudillo et al. on the Journal of Cleaner Production. The data in this paper were collected early than 2013, lack of timeliness, and using the data from individual countries or regions to evaluate the environmental impact of silk is not representative and comprehensive. It is understood that the research was carried out for a completely different purpose, not for the Higg Index.
4. Higg MSI没有公开其计算方法，缺乏社会监督，丝绸生产者对其结果更是不得而知，无从溯源。久而久之，加剧了消费者对丝绸的负面看法，同时也让生产者信心受到重创。
4. Higg MSI didn’t and still does not make public its calculation method and is free from social supervision. The silk producers made nothing of the results and cannot trace their origins. By and by, the consumers’ negative perception on silk are being intensified and the producers’ confidence also severely blown.
开展全面客观的丝绸产品生命周期评价
To make a comprehensive and objective assessment of life cycle of silk products
2015年，近200个国家在“巴黎气候变化大会”上联合通过了《巴黎协定》。多个国家陆续出台了低碳发展战略，中国于2020年提出了“2030碳达峰、2060碳中和”的目标；英国运用限制和激励两种手段促进温室气体减排，确定低碳电力是低碳发展的核心；法国颁布《控制温室效应国家计划》，明确了减排措施选取和制定原则。
In 2015, nearly 200 countries jointly adopted the Paris Agreement at the United Nations Climate Change Conference in Paris. Many countries have enacted low-carbon development strategies in succession. In 2020, China set out the goal of “achieve peak CO2 emissions before 2030 and carbon neutrality before 2060”. Britain boosted the reduction of greenhouse gas using two approaches, restriction and incentive, and identified low-carbon electricity as the core of low-carbon development. By formulating the National Programme for the Mitigation of Climate Change, France clearly defined the selecting and formulating principles of emission reduction measures.
响应全球低碳发展战略，推动丝绸产业健康发展是丝绸学术界、企业界与消费者的共同责任与担当。国际丝绸产业需要一个公开的全面客观的丝绸产品生命周期评价体系，指导丝绸行业的生产和消费。
It is a joint duty and commitment of the countries, silk academia, business circles and consumers to respond to the global low-carbon development strategies and facilitate the healthy development of silk industry. The international silk industry requires an open, comprehensive and objective assessment system for the life cycle of silk products, to steer the production and consumption of silk industry.
1. 依据相关国际标准，确定符合现阶段丝绸生产和消费的评价系统边界，开展从种桑养蚕、生产设计、循环使用到废弃处理的全生命周期环境评价，评价结果应符合ISO14040/14044要求，并公开解释与使用。
1. It is necessary and impelling to determine the boundaries of the assessment system which confirms to the current production and consumption of silk according to relevant international standards, as well as evaluate its environmental performance in the whole life cycle from sericulture, production, design, use, re-use, up cycling and disposal of silk products. The evaluated sustainability scores are validated by ISO and provided for public use and interpretation.
2. 评价样本要具有全面性、代表性和准确性，既要包括中国、印度和乌兹别克斯坦等丝绸主要生产国，也应涵盖欧洲、美国的丝绸生产商和消费者，涉及丝绸生产的缫丝、捻线、织造、印染等关键环节，真实反映国际丝绸产业的生产技术和生产条件，以及消费者的消费行为和消费习惯。
2. The evaluation sample should be comprehensive, representative and accurate. It should include major silk producing countries such as China, India and Uzbekistan, as well as silk manufacturers and consumers in Europe and the United States, involving the key links of silk production such as silk reeling, twisting, weaving, printing and dyeing, truly reflect the production technology and production conditions of the international silk industry, and the consumer behavior and consumption habits.
3. 合理划分产业链，对各阶段进行全面深入的清单分析，逐步完善丝绸产品生命周期评价，让更加公开透明、经得起实践考验的评价体系在丝绸行业中广泛应用，提升丝绸行业的环境责任意识。
3. It is a compelling duty to divide the industrial chain in a rational way, make a comprehensive, deep and transparent as well as really traceable inventory analysis on each stage and gradually improve the life cycle assessment of silk products, so that a more open and transparent evaluation system that withstands the test of practice can be widely used applied the silk industry, and raise the awareness of environmental responsibility of the silk industry.
4. 积极寻求政策支持，充分发挥行业组织和企业的联动性，确保高质量的、有时效性的产业数据运用在评价体系中，客观的反映丝绸产品的环境表现。推进市场导向的绿色技术创新，规范全球丝绸行业的LCA研究，制定丝绸产品种类规则（PCR）、行业标准和可持续指数，引导丝绸企业绿色生产。
4. To actively seek policy support, fully exert the linkage between trade organizations and enterprises, allow high-quality and time-sensitive industrial data to be applied to the assessment system and objectively reflect the environmental performance of silk products. Promote market-oriented green technological innovation, standardize LCA research in the global silk industry, formulate Silk Product Category Rules (PCR), industry standards and sustainability indexes, guiding silk enterprises to green production.
5. 积极宣传丝绸的可持续性，培育消费者的绿色价值观与绿色消费习惯，充分发挥媒体平台的宣传功能，让消费者全面认识碳中和、可持续和生态环保，打造绿色丝绸产业发展的需求引擎。
5. Last but not least silk needs all of us to take the initiative to cultivate consumers’ green values and green spending habits, and give full value to the publicity function of the media platform, so that consumers can fully understand carbon neutrality, sustainability and ecological environment protection, and create a demand engine for the development of green silk industry.
统筹能源资源，倡导绿色低碳，我们有责任共建丝绸绿色家园。国际丝绸行业组织、企业和品牌需要凝聚力量，共谋发展，积极推动全面客观的丝绸产品生命周期评价，让丝绸产业健康持续发展。
Plan energy resources as a whole and advocate greenness and low carbon. We are liable to co-build a green home for silk. Industry organizations, enterprises and brands of International silk should pool efforts, seek common development, propel the comprehensive and objective assessment of the life cycle of silk products, and guarantee the healthy and sustainable development of the silk industry.
